What Inspires Olivier Theyskens?

Olivier Theyskens at the FIT - November 15, 2011

Back in October I attended Olivier Theyskens’ talk at the FIT. When you’ve been reading this blog long enough, you’ll know that I’m a huge fan of his work. Olivier’s Resort 2012 collection is basically what I want to dress like on a daily basis and look 44 of SS12 is what I want to wear to every ball from now on. (Yeah, because I go to one every other week!) Thankfully I was not disappointed. Olivier giggled his way through his talk, clearly a bit embarrassed by how pretentious talking about oneself could possibly sound. But of course he didn’t sound pretentious at all. You know how sometimes famous people are described as ‘down to earth’ but what that really means is that they are ‘down to earth – for a celebrity’? I didn’t get that vibe from Olivier at all. He seemed like such a normal, grounded person who – as cliched as it may sound – has his priorities right and I got the sense that he doesn’t take himself too seriously.

Here are my somewhat fragmented notes from that night. I hope they still give an insight into how Olivier approaches the design process:

After a video of Olivier (or a hand posing as Olivier’s?) sketching SS12 was played to entertain the masses, Valerie Steele, Director and Chief Curator of The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology, introduced the designer. ‘Hiiiiiii everyone!’ he said in the cutest French accent before setting out to explore his identity as a designer with us.

Something Old, Something New

Something Old, Something New (image via MFIT)

Olivier explained that he’s not inspired by images too much but his childhood seems to have played a crucial role in forming his aesthetic. He spent a lot of time at his grandparents’ farm in Normandy. He described the place as ‘very country’ and ‘grey’ and likened it to French couture: It’s in ruins but elegant. This may explain his fascination with old lace that he always mixes with something else to add a bit of a rock ‘n roll feel. After all, he’s equally attracted to youth. Capturing a certain mood seems to be another factor. Olivier himself says that it’s attitudes, the idea of people that drive his creativity the most.

Source Of My Heart

Source Of My Heart

Olivier’s clothes often play with androgynity and, as he says, are reminiscent of Brussels. Despite his love of more opulent, detailed pieces like old dress coats, he always finds himself coming back to androgynity.

The Body As A Muse

Rising Spirits

A question the designer gets asked a lot is who his muse is. Giggling (which he really does A LOT), he said he always goes ‘Oops!’ in those situations because he doesn’t have one in the classic sense. But he often does go back to the body itself. A dress comes to life on the body, while a suit makes the body disappear which of course adds to the androgynity of a garment. This principle is also reflected in the two parts his collections always have: fluidity that you have to see on the body in order to appreciate the cut and tailoring.

Fluidity and Tailoring

Olivier's girl (image via MFIT)