Mary Portas: reshaping the retail landscape

Mary Portas’ new shop at House of Fraser opened yesterday, in the department store’s Oxford Street flagship. The aim is to cover a market that is both obvious and badly served: the over 40s. Inspired by her own frustration with how women of that age group are treated by the industry – they pretty much become invisible – Mary took matters into her own hands. Expect a mix of clothes designed by Mary herself, edits from her favourite High Street brands like Whistles and a handful of collaborations with brands like Clarks and Radley. And it’s the Radley collaboration that has caught my eye.

Compton: a slouchy tassled hobo

Compton: a slouchy tassled hobo

Holloway: an easy to carry cross body saddle bag

Holloway: an easy to carry cross body saddle bag

Gracefield: a boxy grab or shoulder grab

Gracefield: a boxy grab or shoulder grab

Shopper: a contemporary and functional tote

Shopper: a contemporary and functional tote

Mary worked with the British brand on a limited edition handbag collection that comprises four ranges: Compton is a rather trendy tassled hobo, Holloway an easy to carry cross body saddle bag, Gracefield is a boxy classic, and Shopper is a functional tote. Every bag is made of beautiful leather and sports exceptional detailing such as heavy stitching, bombardier piping, oversized zip pulls, and hand woven tassel fringing. Some models are available in goes-with-everything black but I love the more colourful ones. Orange is obviously a colour of strategic importance in this case but I think it will be great to brighten up any outfit, too. There’s also plenty of middleground with brown, blue, teal and cream. The range truely offers something for everyone.

The line is available at ‘Mary & House of Fraser’ on Oxford Street, www.radley.co.uk and the microsite www.houseoffraser.co.uk/MaryPortas. The later happens to be designed by my friend Karen Cinnamon of Cinnamon Creative. She is a very talented graphic designer and branding expert who has worked with New Look, Marks & Spencer, organic clothing line Saf, London Fashion Weekend and many more. With all that retail & fashion experience she was definitely a great choice and I love the final product.


Tagging along to Balmoral

The Queen is on holiday in Balmoral and, guess what, I’m fantasy-tagging along! Living in London and New York City has done nothing to curb my pumpkin tendencies and I love a weekend that involves Hunter wellies and a Barbour jacket. Those staples aside, the main question when joining the Queen is, of course, what else to wear. Which is why I’ve been working on my wardrobe for Balmoral for the last two or so weeks. Exactly what you’ve been waiting for. Sometimes we just don’t know we want something, until someone points it out to us. This must be one of those cases.

So, what do we know? Scotland is ridiculously cold, even in August. The weather forecast, which I’ve been keeping an eye on for a while now, predicts temperatures around 15 degrees and lots of rain. Rarely have I been so prepared for a trip and it’s not even real. Oh dear. What else? There are tons of rules to follow throughout an average day at the castle and my day will be pretty much pre-planned as well. It’s said to be freezing in the main house and there is no central heating.

During the day: hat £20 at Topshop, Vivienne Westwood wool blazer £395 at netaporter.com, jumper £95 at All Saints, Carven skirt £195 at brownsfashion.com, belt £24.99 at Zara, Alberto Fasciani boots £925 at brownsfashion.com

During the day: hat £20 at Topshop, Vivienne Westwood wool blazer £395 at netaporter.com, jumper £95 at All Saints, Carven skirt £195 at brownsfashion.com, belt £24.99 at Zara, Alberto Fasciani boots £925 at brownsfashion.com

The day starts out with breakfast followed by some sort of hike or walk or horse riding. Lunch will be served at one of the cabins, so basically a Royal picnic. I guess my outfit has to be somewhat mud-resistant on that occasion. And waterproof! I decided on a modern spin on what you see The Queen wearing in pictures. She’s the one to take your cues from. The riding hat is NOT optional and must even be worn on a walk.

Cocktails and dinner: t-shirt £22.90 at Mango, skirt £42 at Topshop, Miu Miu Mary Janes £270 at netaporter.com, Loree Rodkin armor ring £18,250

Cocktails and dinner: t-shirt £22.90 at Mango, skirt £42 at Topshop, Miu Miu Mary Janes £270 at netaporter.com, Loree Rodkin armor ring £18,250

After that there appears to be more hiking/walking/horse riding before everyone heads back to the castle for afternoon tea. I have no idea if you’d have to change for that. I assume yes but as I haven’t read any protocol on how this is supposed to go down, there won’t be an outfit idea. After tea, I’m expected to entertain myself with more walks. Soon after, pre-dinner cocktails are served (I probably need a large gin by then!) followed by, you guessed it, dinner. Women are expected to wear long dresses. I’d try and get away with an Jil Sander-inspired evening skirt/t-shirt combo (not as minimalist tho) – which would sure earn me a stern talking-to by some sort of butler. I’d also wear flats because I have a feeling more gin will follow later.

BBQ on Saturday: Weekend by MaxMara jumper £160 at matchesfashion.com, oversized Acne scarf £380 at brownsfashion.com, Gucci trouser £360 at netaporter.com, ankle boot £69.99 at Zara

BBQ on Saturday: Weekend by MaxMara jumper £160 at matchesfashion.com, oversized Acne scarf £380 at brownsfashion.com, Gucci trouser £360 at netaporter.com, ankle boot £69.99 at Zara

On Saturdays there’s a BBQ where the Duke of Edinburgh insists on putting the sausages on himself and the Queen does the dishes afterwards. Rubber gloves and all.

Church on Sunday: Vionnet dress £1,313 at matchesfashion.com, jacket £79.99 at Mango, Analeena bag (price on application), Gianvito Rossi pump £595 at matchesfashion.com

Church on Sunday: Vionnet dress £1,313 at matchesfashion.com, jacket £79.99 at Mango, Analeena bag (price on application), Gianvito Rossi pump £595 at matchesfashion.com

On Sundays everyone goes to church which obviously leaves me with little choice. A dress, covered arms, no toes showing I feel. Sheer hose for sure. I’d take a stand by mismatching my bag. I hope this rebellious streak won’t reveal my republican tendencies.

Essentials: HeatTech longsleeve £14.90 at uniqlo.com, HeatTech camisole £9.90, artisan organic chocolates €26 at zotter.at, woolly socks £6 at Topshop, Hampstead weekend bag £390 at Archer Adams

Essentials: HeatTech longsleeve £14.90 at uniqlo.com, HeatTech camisole £9.90, artisan organic chocolates €26 at zotter.at, woolly socks £6 at Topshop, Hampstead weekend bag £390 at Archer Adams

That’s the clothes sorted, what else do we need? Before I depart, a visit to a Uniqlo store is in order. Stocking up on thermal underwear is essential! Woolly socks, too, to wear with my pyjamas. As a present for my host, I heard that chocolates are ok. I’m Austrian so this is where I give the Royals something from my home country: Zotter chocolate! It’s organic so even Prince Charles can have some. And finally, to pack it all up, I’d take along a men’s weekend bag by Archer Adams because it’s beautiful and utterly fitting as well. The Hampstead is made in the UK of Holland & Sherry Harris tweed and English bridle leather. A bag to represent the Union. I’m sure the Queen would approve.

Puh, I’m glad that we’re all prepared now. And I hope there’s someone out there who shares my sense of humour! But all joking aside, I managed to sneak quite a few trends in that will be relevant come fall.

THE OUTDOOR OUTFIT

Topshop hat

Vivienne Westwood jacket

All Saints jumper

Carven skirt

Zara belt

Alberto Fasciani boots

THE EVENING OUTFIT

Mango t-shirt

Topshop skirt

Miu Miu Mary Janes

Loree Rodkin ring

THE BBQ OUTFIT

Weekend by MaxMara jumper

Acne scarf

Gucci trouser

Zara ankle flat

THE CHURCH OUTFIT

Vionnet dress

Mango jacket

Analeena bag

Gianvito Rossi pump

THE ESSENTIALS

HeatTech longsleeve

HeatTech camisole

Zotter chocolates

Topshop socks

Archer Adams weekend bag


Trends On Friday: She’s a Lady

The inspiration: Joan Holloway/Mad Men

The inspiration: Joan Holloway/Mad Men

Mad Men has finally caught up with us. There has been talk about the show’s influence on fashion ever since it became popular but it wasn’t until this season that the effects were felt on the runway as well. In a way Joan & Co have only been the catalysts. For Henry Holland or Jeremy Scott, there has been a Christopher Kane or Phoebe Philo. Judging from what I’ve seen when I previewed the fall collections and from what starts being delivered to the shops, there is no denying that lady-like dressing is back.

Lady-like. That’s an awful term. But I cannot for the life of me come up with a better description. To me ‘lady-like’ sounds boring and conservative. But believe me when I say that this is in no way true for what’s to come in the autumn. It is, in fact, quite the opposite of the dreaded work section at Warehouse (Sorry, Warehouse! I love you but not that bit.). Or don’t believe me and go see for yourself:

The designer version: Repetto flat €190 at repetto.fr, Cacharel top $295 at lagarconne.com, Balmain belt £499.47 at luisaviaroma.com, Valentino glove $395 at net-a-porter.com, L'Wren Scott bag $5,500 at barneys.com, Miu Miu pump £345 at net-a-porter.com, Stella McCartney coat £1,435 at matchesfashion.com, Roland Mouret dress £1,230 at www.brownsfashion.com

The designer version: Repetto flat €190 at repetto.fr, Cacharel top $295 at lagarconne.com, Balmain belt £499.47 at luisaviaroma.com, Valentino glove $395 at net-a-porter.com, L'Wren Scott bag $5,500 at barneys.com, Miu Miu pump £345 at net-a-porter.com, Stella McCartney coat £1,435 at matchesfashion.com, Roland Mouret dress £1,230 at www.brownsfashion.com

Links for the designer version:

Repetto flat

Cacharel top

Balmain belt

Valentino gloves

L’Wren Scott bag

Miu Miu pump

Stella McCartney coat

Roland Mouret dress

The highstreet version: French Sole flat £90 at asos.com, chain belt £17.99 at zara.com, pussybow blouse £30 at asos.com, glove £20 at topshop.com, city bag £39.99 at zara.com, pump £195 at lkbennett.com, coat £119 at zara.com, dress £46 at topshop.com

The highstreet version: French Sole flat £90 at asos.com, chain belt £17.99 at zara.com, pussybow blouse £30 at asos.com, glove £20 at topshop.com, city bag £39.99 at zara.com, pump £195 at lkbennett.com, coat £119 at zara.com, dress £46 at topshop.com

Links for the highstreet version:

French Sole flat

Zara chain belt

Asos pussybow blouse

Topshop glove

Zara bag

LK Bennett pump

Zara coat

Topshop dress


Summer Sales – SANDRO Edit

Arbi boots were €395 now €276.5, Règne dress was €175 now €122.5, Accordéon belt was €95 now €76, Abstrait bag was €195 now €136.5

Arbi boots were €395 now €276.5, Règne dress was €175 now €122.5, Accordéon belt was €95 now €76, Abstrait bag was €195 now €136.5

Running back to the other end of the spectrum, let’s have a look what French label Sandro has to offer. Here it seems to be all about accessories for me. I love the neutrals which are very current and every piece has interesting detailing.

Arbi boots

Règne dress

Accordéon belt

Abstrait bag


Summer Sales – REISS Edit

GABBY over size silk top was £95 now £47, DUKE canvas shoulder bag was £149 now £89, PYTHON mesh tank was £89 now £53

GABBY over size silk top was £95 now £47, DUKE canvas shoulder bag was £149 now £89, PYTHON mesh tank was £89 now £53

I’m on a roll, people! Churning out posts like nobody’s business. Reiss is another firm favourite of mine and it was almost Zara-difficult to edit down what’s on offer. But ultimately, I ended up loving the following:

The cream and black Gabby top looks light and loose enough to wear in the heat. I’m in New York now where the temperature has dictated what I can and cannot wear for weeks now. It will look laid-back yet put together with denim cut-offs, a straw fedora and gladiator sandals. The canvas bag in the middle of the picture is structured yet looks light and summery. The pink top I’d team up with nude tones to jazz up an otherwise monochromatic outfit which is a major trend this summer.

GABBY top

DUKE bag

PYTHON tank


Summer Sales – ZARA Edit

Blouse with neckline bow was £22.99 now £17.99, triangular clutch was £29.99 now £15.99, skinny trousers were £39.99 now £29.99

Blouse with neckline bow was £22.99 now £17.99, triangular clutch was £29.99 now £15.99, skinny trousers were £39.99 now £29.99

Finally! The Zara sale has started today. The discounts may not be as great as at other retailers but I always feel you get better design and quality here.

I love this very feminine bow blouse which will be amazing with skinny trousers or a pleated mini-skirt. While I always preferred large bags I recently got into small ones worn across the body. This boxy little number is too cute and similar cobalt blue hues were featured strongly in Resort 2012. If you’re after an Isabel Marant inspired look on a budget, I strongly suggest these skinny trousers. I’m not sure if they are ankle-length or if they’re just rolled up for the photo. In any case, this is how you should wear them to achieve the look. Pair with kitten heels and a little jumper.

Waxed jacket was £79.99 now £59.99, pleated chino trousers were £25.99 now £19.99, velveteen blazer was £79.99 now £69.99

Waxed jacket was £79.99 now £59.99, pleated chino trousers were £25.99 now £19.99, velveteen blazer was £79.99 now £69.99

I had a strict 4-pieces-only policy until I got to Zara. It’s just too good and after a lot of back and forth, I finally managed to wiggle it down to six.

Someone once said to me that I have an English upper crust idea of how to dress when in the countryside. That might be true, I just don’t agree with the ‘upper crust’ bit. I do love a well-worn Barbour jacket and classic Hunter wellies. So it probably doesn’t come as a surprise that I picked this waxed jacket at Zara. The red trousers pretty much sum up the silhouette I’ve been enamoured with for quite some time now. Cropped somewhat loose-fitting trousers with booties are one of my go-to outfits. Sometimes I wear the combo with a t-shirt, sometimes with a blazer. Finally, the last item is a blazer with a turned up collar. It reminded me of a picture of Inès de La Fressange (one of my, if not THE, eternal style icons) that I saw recently. She was in New York and was photographed wearing a jacket with a similar collar and looking the epitome of chic. Any style tip I can get from her, I happily take on board!

Unexpectedly, this post went in a decidedly French direction.

bow blouse

boxy bag

skinny trousers

waxed jacket

pleated chinos

velveteen blazer


Summer Sales – TOPSHOP Edit

Wrap front shorts was £28 now £15, Black Angel print mesh dress was £220 now £110, black frame punchout bag was £25 now £12

Wrap front shorts was £28 now £15, Black Angel print mesh dress was £220 now £110, black frame punchout bag was £25 now £12

This one will be the last one for today and tomorrow I’ll start with Zara working my way up to mid-range retailers like Reiss, Whistles and All Saints. Anyway, let’s have a look at Topshop:

Brilliant light-weight shorts with an interesting cut. These are still very simple and an absolute steal at £15. The Black Angel dress reminded me of Hermione de Paula who I adore. I’d wear it as a cocktail dress. The bag I chose because I think it’s an interesting take on frame bags. It’s very versatile and could replace your messenger bag if you grow tired of it every now and again.

wrap front shorts

Black Angel dress

frame bag


Helmut Lang Resort/Holiday 2011 preview

My picks from Resort/Holiday 2011: transparent sequin & leather detail dress, ostrich feather top, blazer, draped dress

My picks from Resort/Holiday 2011: transparent sequin & leather detail dress, ostrich feather top, blazer, draped dress

Since I’m a freelance stylist and not attached to a magazine, I pick and choose the appointments I want to go on, and Helmut Lang is definitely near the top of my list. Today I went to preview Resort/Holiday 2011 and FW 2011 in New York. This post will be about Resort, the next one about my impressions of FW.

Helmut Lang’s aesthetic in general very much agrees with my own: Most of my wardrobe is black or grey, I love draping, metallics, feathers, sequins, leather – you get the picture. Resort 11 is no exception and I want to own most of it. I say Resort but it’s more of a Holiday collection. Nicole and Michael Colovos have said that the Helmut Lang girl doesn’t do resort so this collection will hit stores at around October/November in time for the Christmas party season.

As for my picks: I was smitten with a transparent layered dress with a silver sequin front and a leather strap that transitions into a leather panel in the back. Feathers still do it for me on a garment (which is odd because I’m scared of birds). I preferred it as a top but there also was a dress version of this design. A lovely blazer with a very minimalistic and interesting lapel and a pretty cuff detail (see picture below) stood out. In my opinion this deconstructed dress looks sophisticated without trying too hard.

Details: fur collar on a grey felt coat, interesting cuff

Details: fur collar on a grey felt coat, interesting cuff

The range of accessories has been extended for the coming season and wallets and evening bags have been added to the range. The most striking ones for me were the new messenger bag (which comes in a sand tone and black) and a larger handbag with an unexpected but very beautiful (and detachable) horse hair tassel.

Resort Accessories: messenger bag with bullet-like detail, bag with horse hair tassel

Resort Accessories: messenger bag with bullet-like detail, bag with horse hair tassel

As mentioned above I ended up wanting most pieces for myself. Even the ones I didn’t take a picture of I can easily see myself wearing. The whole collection felt like a more minimalistic, grown-up version of All Saints who I adore as well. The materials were divine and you could feel the quality when you touched a garment. Everything had a certain weight to it, even the pieces made of transparent materials. The label pulls off a perfect balance between adding a staggering amount of detail and keeping lines clean and simple. Combine all that with excellent workmanship and you end up with a product that people can and will wear for many seasons to come.


Laser-cut Christopher Kane for netaporter.com clutch

Laser-cut Christopher Kane clutch £295/$530 exclusively at netaporter.com

Laser-cut Christopher Kane clutch £295/$530 exclusively at netaporter.com

It looks like neither my personal nor the fashion industry’s as a whole fascination with neon accessories is going to die down anytime soon. Christopher Kane just launched this clutch exclusively for netaporter.com and declared all other colours ‘so banal’ in the process. The flowery lace laser-cut design is in keeping with Kane’s current spring collection and will look absolutely stunning paired with nudes and neutrals, maybe a cropped trouser with this graphic Choo.

pink clutch

green clutch

yellow clutch

orange clutch


FR by Fashion Rocks Sale

1 Forrest & Bob t-shirt was £41 now £20.50, 2 Bjorg Love Story Classic Charm 65 was £60 now £45, 3 Joseph blazer was £479 now £359.25, 4 Angel Jackson bag was £495 now 247.50, 5 See by Chloe vest was £140 now 105, 6 Preen Line dress was £350 now £175

1 Forrest & Bob t-shirt was £41 now £20.50, 2 Bjorg Love Story Classic Charm 65 was £60 now £45, 3 Joseph blazer was £479 now £359.25, 4 Angel Jackson bag was £495 now 247.50, 5 See by Chloe vest was £140 now 105, 6 Preen Line dress was £350 now £175

The Fashion Rocks online shop has a sale!

Most of us know Fashion Rocks as the event that brings together the worlds of music and fashion to raise money for charity. But they also run an online shop stocked with great pieces by household names and less well known designers alike. The sale going on at the moment offers up to 50% off. I had a look through and picked a few hero pieces: Anything with an anchor on it instantly gets my attention. I think it has something to do with my stripes obsession… When you look back a couple of posts, you’ll find out that I’ve been trying to persuade everyone that insects are a trend for a while now. Same goes for white tuxes – are you convinced yet? I can picture Kate Moss carrying the Angel Jackson bag. I don’t think you need any more prove of its rock credibility! This See by Chloe top satisfies my craving for something unabashedly pretty and I can never resist some deconstruction in a garment, dresses in particular.

Unfortunately, Markus Lupfer is not discounted but so incredibly cool I’m happy to pay full price. There’s also a ravishing collection of (discounted!) Red Valentino pieces on the site. I love so many of the items (minus that dreadful clog) I couldn’t decide which one to include in my selection. So I decided to link to all of them.

Forrest & Bob t-shirt

Bjorg charm

Joseph blazer

Angel Jackson bag

See by Chloe vest

Preen Line dress


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