Daphne Guinness at FIT
Posted: October 3, 2011 Filed under: Couture, exhibitions, fashion and art, New York, style icons | Tags: Alexander McQueen, Azzedine Alaïa, Chanel, Christian Dior, Daphne Guinness, Fashion Institute of Technology, FIT, Givenchy, Hogan, Karl Lagerfeld, Massaro, Nina Ricci, Rick Owens, Valentino Leave a comment »Two weeks ago I went to preview Daphne Guinness’ exhibition at the FIT Museum. Approximately 100 garments and accessories from her personal collection are on display, completed by films, videos, images and a very beautiful hologram.
Alexander McQueen catsuit and cape, Massaro navy satin and rhinestones platform shoe
After checking in I made my way downstairs into the exhibition which is spread out over two rooms. In the middle of the first room a catsuit and cape by Alexander McQueen set the mood. Walking around the mannequin, some of Daphne’s most ravishing shoes are displayed in glass cases. Between those cases photo slide shows give you the first idea of the creativity that Daphne herself contributes to the projects she works on. At the end of room 1, a video traces her transformation into the style icon she is today.
Daphne's shoe collection at FIT
While I was watching this video the FIT’s PR came downstairs and said something that left me and the people around me guessing. Did she just say Daphne will come downstairs in a few moments? Or did she say Daphne will be upstairs? Nobody seemed sure so I ventured into the second room and thought I’d see what happens in a few minutes.
Inspired by menswear
Inspired by menswear
The pieces are arranged according to the various themes that inspire Daphne’s choices. It starts with menswear and then progresses into evening, day, armour etc. I would say the majority of pieces on show are by Chanel, McQueen and Dior with the occasional Valentino, Alaia, Gareth Pugh, and Hogan thrown in for good measure. It was hardly a surprise that I loved her Chanel pieces the most. But I don’t really want to play favourites here because all pieces were outstanding. I walked around, took photos, watched Tribute to Alexander McQueen which was directed by Daphne, and got mesmerised by the hologram floating in the middle of the room. So mesmerised in fact that I didn’t notice that everybody but the security guards were gone. After finishing up I went upstairs and realised that Daphne had indeed been upstairs to talk to the press but I had missed her. Although I would have loved to hear what she had to say about her own exhibition, I was OK with it. I have seen her in the flesh before when we were on the same flight back to London after the Met Costume Institute Gala in May and I can report that she is tiny and tries hard not to draw attention to herself. I also had the exhibition basically to myself for a while, being snapped out of my fascination only briefly to talk to a female guard who took the opportunity to take a few snaps of the clothes as well.
Unfortunately, I’m not the most talented photographer so we’ll have to make do with whatever my camera could manage:
Azzedine Alaïa black wool jacket
Alexander McQueen jacket with eagle epaulets, black silk taffeta and silver metal (worn over a navy Christian Dior evening dress)
Hogan leather jumpsuit and modified Nina Ricci boots
Alexander McQueen short evening dresses
Alexander McQueen coat dress with grey iridiscent paillettes
Detail: Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel black wool crepe jacket with metallic net and sequins
Alexander McQueen for Givenchy silk satin kimono-style evening dress
Detail: Alexander McQueen evening dress with kimono-style sleeves
Rick Owens sleevesless evening coat with high collar in pale grey silk faille (worn backwards over) over Daphne Guinness short evening coat with silver and black metallic paillette
Alexander McQueen catsuit and cape
Alexander McQueen white sheared fur jacket and grey sequins leggings
Valentino black lace and feathers dress
Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel ivory sequins on silk net jacket with white feathers
Alexander McQueen off white silk chiffon gauze and rhinestones dress, Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel ivory silk faille jacket with embroidered stone rim, Alexander McQueen fuchsia sequins leggings
Christian Dior pale pink silk charmeuse dress, Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel black silk satin dress with rhinestones
I highly recommend visiting the exhibition. Especially if you’ve been to and liked Savage Beauty. You get a closer look at the garments and how they are made which really makes you appreciate their beauty and the craftsmanship that went into them. There’s nothing like seeing couture up close! Just don’t head straight into the next H&M afterwards. That might make you cry.
The exhibition runs until January 7, 2012 and is open Tuesday-Friday noon – 8pm and Saturday 10am – 5pm but closed Sunday, Monday, and legal holidays. Admission is free and open to the public.
Paris Couture Fall 11 – My Favourite Looks
Posted: July 13, 2011 Filed under: Couture, fashion and art, Paris | Tags: Armani Privé, Azzedine Alaïa, Chanel, couture, Elie Saab, fashion, Giambattista Valli, Givenchy, Paris, Valentino 3 Comments »Ah, couture! The stuff that dreams are made of. Mine at least. I think this was a very strong season. Some shows really stood out to me. How gorgeous was Givenchy? Yes, it didn’t feel entirely new but really, who cares when the end result is so beautiful. The first look in particular felt like an evolution of the lilac and yellow (or was it gold) dress Cate Blanchett wore to the Oscars earlier this year. I also loved the fact that all the dresses were some shade of white. The collection looked sensational in the group shot.
Givenchy, look 1
Givenchy, look 5
Of course, Chanel never disappoints either. Apparently, Uncle Karl wants us to wear peplum skirts. Who are we to contradict?
Chanel, look 22
Chanel, look 32
Chanel, look 36
Chanel, look 41
Chanel, look 47
Let’s not talk about the dog’s dinner the Dior show was and move right on to the much lauded Armani Armani Privé collection. Honestly, I don’t see it. For me Armani didn’t feel fresh and that’s what I expect from couture. I don’t want to see something that’s been done for ages, only now done by Armani. I do understand that he had very personal and noble reasons to put out a collection that gives Japan the spotlight it deserves. Sadly, it’s not working for me visually. I find it far too literal, almost costume-y. On a positive note, I do like the silhouettes and there was the odd look that looked good.
Armani Privé, look 12
Armani Privé, look 27
Then there was Azzedine Alaïa’s first ever couture show. Very beautiful, very Alaïa but with new techniques and materials. The industry was excited beforehand and was not disappointed. He might also have scored a few points last week for being so outspoken and frank about certain issues in the industry. I absolutely admire that Alaïa seems to ignore the system to a great extent and let’s his talent and creativity speak for itself.
Azzedine Alaïa, look 23
Azzedine Alaïa, look 24
This was also the first couture season for Giambattista Valli. The Italian put out a ravishing collection that reminded me of his first few RTW collections. But in a good way! The drama was back and the feathers and I remembered why I was so taken with his work in the first place. The following look is not quite typical for the whole show but I loved it!
Giambattista Valli, look 18
To finish off, let’s see what couture routiniers Valentino and Elie Saab were up too. As always, Elie Saab was just made for the red carpet. In fact, the show looked like the best RC in the world! I loved the soft colours, the transparencies, the details. Valentino seems to have explored transparency as well this season and while the result is in places quite different to Elie Saab, it’s just as pretty and exciting.
Elie Saab, look 2
Elie Saab, look 36
Look at this amazing cut-out front! This I can see reappearing in RTW a few years from now. Also, velvet was a predominant material this season.
Valentino, look 18
Valentino, look 38
