What Inspires Olivier Theyskens?
Posted: December 22, 2011 Filed under: designer spotlight, New York | Tags: fashion, Fashion Institute of Technology, FIT, MFIT, Olivier Theyskens, Theory, Theyskens' Theory, Valerie Steele Leave a comment »
Olivier Theyskens at the FIT - November 15, 2011
Back in October I attended Olivier Theyskens’ talk at the FIT. When you’ve been reading this blog long enough, you’ll know that I’m a huge fan of his work. Olivier’s Resort 2012 collection is basically what I want to dress like on a daily basis and look 44 of SS12 is what I want to wear to every ball from now on. (Yeah, because I go to one every other week!) Thankfully I was not disappointed. Olivier giggled his way through his talk, clearly a bit embarrassed by how pretentious talking about oneself could possibly sound. But of course he didn’t sound pretentious at all. You know how sometimes famous people are described as ‘down to earth’ but what that really means is that they are ‘down to earth – for a celebrity’? I didn’t get that vibe from Olivier at all. He seemed like such a normal, grounded person who – as cliched as it may sound – has his priorities right and I got the sense that he doesn’t take himself too seriously.
Here are my somewhat fragmented notes from that night. I hope they still give an insight into how Olivier approaches the design process:
After a video of Olivier (or a hand posing as Olivier’s?) sketching SS12 was played to entertain the masses, Valerie Steele, Director and Chief Curator of The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology, introduced the designer. ‘Hiiiiiii everyone!’ he said in the cutest French accent before setting out to explore his identity as a designer with us.
Something Old, Something New
Something Old, Something New (image via MFIT)
Olivier explained that he’s not inspired by images too much but his childhood seems to have played a crucial role in forming his aesthetic. He spent a lot of time at his grandparents’ farm in Normandy. He described the place as ‘very country’ and ‘grey’ and likened it to French couture: It’s in ruins but elegant. This may explain his fascination with old lace that he always mixes with something else to add a bit of a rock ‘n roll feel. After all, he’s equally attracted to youth. Capturing a certain mood seems to be another factor. Olivier himself says that it’s attitudes, the idea of people that drive his creativity the most.
Source Of My Heart
Source Of My Heart
Olivier’s clothes often play with androgynity and, as he says, are reminiscent of Brussels. Despite his love of more opulent, detailed pieces like old dress coats, he always finds himself coming back to androgynity.
The Body As A Muse
Rising Spirits
A question the designer gets asked a lot is who his muse is. Giggling (which he really does A LOT), he said he always goes ‘Oops!’ in those situations because he doesn’t have one in the classic sense. But he often does go back to the body itself. A dress comes to life on the body, while a suit makes the body disappear which of course adds to the androgynity of a garment. This principle is also reflected in the two parts his collections always have: fluidity that you have to see on the body in order to appreciate the cut and tailoring.
Fluidity and Tailoring
Olivier's girl (image via MFIT)
Styling Helmut Lang’s SS12 Collection
Posted: December 20, 2011 Filed under: New York, spring/summer | Tags: fashion, Helmut Lang, SS12, styling 3 Comments »Like every season, shortly after the shows had finished, I started to go on countless market appointments to see as many clothes as possible up close. One of my favourite appointments is always Helmut Lang because I love the Lang aesthetic, I love that it is different to anything else out there but consistent within itself, I love a bit of an edge, and I love black. The fact that the label was created by an Austrian designer (well, he’s actually an artist who tried his hand at fashion at some point) makes me even more fond of it. Knowing that the Austrian contribution to fashion on that level is miniscule, I always root for the ones that make it or are about to make it (Devi Kroell – the designer, not the label, Peter Pilotto, Marios Schwab…).
When I arrived at Helmut Lang’s Chelsea showroom last October, their lovely PR Nicole walked me through the collection and mentioned they also had a model on hand should I wish to see something on her. I suggested an impromptu styling session for the blog, so here it is:
Helmut Lang SS12 styled by me!
Helmut Lang styled by me, look 1: print dress & yellow clutch
Helmut Lang styled by me, look 2: yellow print tunic & laser cut leather shorts
Helmut Lang styled by me, look 3: white top, black skirt, black leather sugar jacket, white clutch with horse hair tassle
What do you think? Do you have a favourite look?
Daphne Guinness at FIT
Posted: October 3, 2011 Filed under: Couture, exhibitions, fashion and art, New York, style icons | Tags: Alexander McQueen, Azzedine Alaïa, Chanel, Christian Dior, Daphne Guinness, Fashion Institute of Technology, FIT, Givenchy, Hogan, Karl Lagerfeld, Massaro, Nina Ricci, Rick Owens, Valentino Leave a comment »Two weeks ago I went to preview Daphne Guinness’ exhibition at the FIT Museum. Approximately 100 garments and accessories from her personal collection are on display, completed by films, videos, images and a very beautiful hologram.
Alexander McQueen catsuit and cape, Massaro navy satin and rhinestones platform shoe
After checking in I made my way downstairs into the exhibition which is spread out over two rooms. In the middle of the first room a catsuit and cape by Alexander McQueen set the mood. Walking around the mannequin, some of Daphne’s most ravishing shoes are displayed in glass cases. Between those cases photo slide shows give you the first idea of the creativity that Daphne herself contributes to the projects she works on. At the end of room 1, a video traces her transformation into the style icon she is today.
Daphne's shoe collection at FIT
While I was watching this video the FIT’s PR came downstairs and said something that left me and the people around me guessing. Did she just say Daphne will come downstairs in a few moments? Or did she say Daphne will be upstairs? Nobody seemed sure so I ventured into the second room and thought I’d see what happens in a few minutes.
Inspired by menswear
Inspired by menswear
The pieces are arranged according to the various themes that inspire Daphne’s choices. It starts with menswear and then progresses into evening, day, armour etc. I would say the majority of pieces on show are by Chanel, McQueen and Dior with the occasional Valentino, Alaia, Gareth Pugh, and Hogan thrown in for good measure. It was hardly a surprise that I loved her Chanel pieces the most. But I don’t really want to play favourites here because all pieces were outstanding. I walked around, took photos, watched Tribute to Alexander McQueen which was directed by Daphne, and got mesmerised by the hologram floating in the middle of the room. So mesmerised in fact that I didn’t notice that everybody but the security guards were gone. After finishing up I went upstairs and realised that Daphne had indeed been upstairs to talk to the press but I had missed her. Although I would have loved to hear what she had to say about her own exhibition, I was OK with it. I have seen her in the flesh before when we were on the same flight back to London after the Met Costume Institute Gala in May and I can report that she is tiny and tries hard not to draw attention to herself. I also had the exhibition basically to myself for a while, being snapped out of my fascination only briefly to talk to a female guard who took the opportunity to take a few snaps of the clothes as well.
Unfortunately, I’m not the most talented photographer so we’ll have to make do with whatever my camera could manage:
Azzedine Alaïa black wool jacket
Alexander McQueen jacket with eagle epaulets, black silk taffeta and silver metal (worn over a navy Christian Dior evening dress)
Hogan leather jumpsuit and modified Nina Ricci boots
Alexander McQueen short evening dresses
Alexander McQueen coat dress with grey iridiscent paillettes
Detail: Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel black wool crepe jacket with metallic net and sequins
Alexander McQueen for Givenchy silk satin kimono-style evening dress
Detail: Alexander McQueen evening dress with kimono-style sleeves
Rick Owens sleevesless evening coat with high collar in pale grey silk faille (worn backwards over) over Daphne Guinness short evening coat with silver and black metallic paillette
Alexander McQueen catsuit and cape
Alexander McQueen white sheared fur jacket and grey sequins leggings
Valentino black lace and feathers dress
Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel ivory sequins on silk net jacket with white feathers
Alexander McQueen off white silk chiffon gauze and rhinestones dress, Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel ivory silk faille jacket with embroidered stone rim, Alexander McQueen fuchsia sequins leggings
Christian Dior pale pink silk charmeuse dress, Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel black silk satin dress with rhinestones
I highly recommend visiting the exhibition. Especially if you’ve been to and liked Savage Beauty. You get a closer look at the garments and how they are made which really makes you appreciate their beauty and the craftsmanship that went into them. There’s nothing like seeing couture up close! Just don’t head straight into the next H&M afterwards. That might make you cry.
The exhibition runs until January 7, 2012 and is open Tuesday-Friday noon – 8pm and Saturday 10am – 5pm but closed Sunday, Monday, and legal holidays. Admission is free and open to the public.
New York Fashion Week Recap (SS12)
Posted: September 22, 2011 Filed under: autumn/winter, New York, New York Fashion Week, trends | Tags: Alejandro Ingelmo, Alexander Wang, Ashley Olsen, Christian Siriano, Cushnie et Ochs, Doo.Ri, fashion, Helmut Lang, J.Crew, Jason Wu, Jenna Lyons, Jenni Kayne, Mary-Kate Olsen, Michael and Nicole Colovos, New York, New York Fashion Week, Olivier Theyskens, Oscar de la Renta, Prabal Gurung, Preen, Ralph Lauren, SS12, The Row, Theyskens' Theory, Zac Posen Leave a comment »While everyone has been quick to post their favourite looks from New York Fashion Week, I’ve taken my sweet time. The main reason being that it’s all just too much. I can get through all the shows, analyse trends, and form an opinion. That’s not the problem. It’s rather that I look at how many shows I have to get through in order to come up with my selection of, say, 10 images that I liked and that I consider important and automatically I don’t want to and every other task seems to hold more interest. Time to write that email I’ve meant to send for days now. Oh, I cannot possibly write a blog post while there are dirty dishes in the sink. And so on. You know it’s bad when even housework looks more appealing. I guess my point is that while I love fashion (I made it my job after all), I couldn’t care less for the circus that is fashion week. It would all be more enjoyable if we slowed things down a little. Let the mass hysteria that surrounds the event calm down a bit. Some of the designers seem to agree with me. Tom Ford famously tries to protect himself from the fatigue his customers will inevitably experience seeing his looks for months before they become available by keeping his show ultra-private with no photos allowed. Vena Cava released their SS12 lookbook the night before NYFW had officially started and held a dinner in the Meatpacking in celebration of the collection. No runway show, no presentation.
But every cloud has a silver lining and for me that is the brands which focus on putting out good clothes instead of promoting a different version of ‘thematic’ dressing season after season. Let’s dive in!
JENNI KAYNE
Jenni Kayne: looks 3, 6 and 13 on style.com
Jenni Kayne mixed country club chic with a hint of athleticism which was also *the* major theme running through most collections. Overall I found the pieces as understated as I’ve come to expect from Kayne and I’m sure they’ll be easy to wear. The trouser of look 13 looks like a preppier version of Olivier Theyskens’ slouchy jean for AW11 to me and I think that means it will go on my SS12 wish list.
CUSHNIE ET OCHS
Cushnie et Ochs: looks 3, 12 and 16 on style.com
Cushnie et Ochs experimented with colour this season. There were pink, yellow, camel and black – all of which cropped up in many other collections. Generally, I think we’re in for a lot of bright pink next spring with yellow coming in a close second. Plunging necklines seem to be another trend to emerge from NY and I particularly like how they’re done here. The pictures I chose wouldn’t suggest that but peplums were big in this collection (and many others), too.
JASON WU
Jason Wu: looks 3, 9, 30 and 34 on style.com
Plenty of peplums here too. Most dresses had mullet hemlines which I normally hate but didn’t hate here. Which only goes to show that I can like almost anything if it’s done the right way. According to the designer he wanted his spring offering to be “clean and couture — but with some very quirky elements”. I’m on board with clean and quirky details but I’m strongly against the misuse of the word couture. It’s a very narrowly defined term (it’s individually made and not mass-produced to begin with) and really not there to describe putting extraordinary effort into a collection. Shocking pinks and electric blues also featured in Wu’s collection. The petal prints used throughout were a collaboration with New York graffiti artist Kaws. I also loved Wu’s chiffon windbreakers.
DOO.RI
Doo.ri: looks 4, 5, 9 and 13 on style.com
Doo.ri showed a lovely collection that seemed fluid on the bottom but tailored on top. Legs were on display and I adore her colour palette. Purple seemed to be another trend which was even more prominent at Prabal Gurung. I loved so many pieces but to be honest, wasn’t too keen on the fringing.
THE ROW
The Row: 3, 6, 16 and 22 from style.com
When I think about how young the Olsen twins are and how great The Row is after only a handful of seasons, it’s easy to predict that we can expect many great clothes from them in the future. I love how they always keep things simple but interesting at the same time. Their clothes have always had a modern sensibility that reminds me of Phoebe Philo’s. This season is no different: delicate whites give the collection lightness with the faintest of sorbet colours (mint, peach, blush pink) complimenting it. It seems to be all about trousers for me at the moment because, again, I love the pair in look 3: a slouchy, elongated tuxido trouser that’s just perfectly styled with a white t-shirt.
PRABAL GURUNG
Prabal Gurung: looks 4, 7, 16 and 37 on style.com
I mean, this collection is just ridiculously beautiful! The vibrant violets, electric purples, fuchisa and seafoam broken up with black and white are irresistible. Many looks were styled with harnesses to toughen them up. Highly original collection.
ALEXANDER WANG
Alexander Wang: looks 8, 12 and 17 plus detail shot 68 on style.com
The thing with Alexander Wang for me is that he makes really wearable, covetable clothes but so far he has worked more like a stylist than a designer. Something that’s also been said about Marc Jacobs but I feel it’s much more evident in Wang’s collections. This season, however, he displayed (or hopefully: started to display) his design ability and I love the outcome. Inspired by motocross and BMX, Wang serves up a sporty collection with lots of mesh overlays – bodysuits, windbreakers, nylon peplum jackets, Bermuda shorts. This helps to give his botanical prints an urban edge. Talk of the show were of course his oversized backpacks (in the loveliest burgundy and navy). I’m already curious how many we’ll see on New York streets come spring.
HELMUT LANG
Helmut Lang: looks 6, 24 and 25 on style.com
Helmut Lang is one of my favourite labels. I could gladly live in Helmut Lang and Theyskens’ Theory with not much else. It’s obviously not featured much in magazines but many stylists and editors wear it themselves. The runway show was the label’s first since Michael and Nicole Colovos started designing it 5 years ago. The usual black, white and grey palette was extended with yellow this season which seems like a fitting development of AW’s oranges and rusty reds. The shoes for the show were platforms designed by Alejandro Ingelmo who held his own presentation as well – ravishing!
ZAC POSEN
Zac Posen: looks 1, 9, 16, 22 on style.com
The show marked Zac’s return to New York after a brief stint in Paris. But to me it also felt a bit like ‘the return of the old Zac’. The designer focused on great cuts, corsets and a mermaid hemline which I consider a Zac signature.
PREEN
Preen: looks 7, 9, 25 and 35 on style.com
Preen showed one of the most well-reviewed collections in New York. Their amazing use of colour, their palette amounted in one of the most unique visions I’ve seen in a while. The clothes were beautifully light and airy and I loved the mix of materials. Who knew lace and techno fabrics would work together so well?
THEYSKENS’ THEORY
Theyskens' Theory: looks 2, 22 and 44 on style.com
I simply cannot say enough great things about Theyskens’ Theory. This is EXACTLY how I want to dress. Olivier Theyskens undeniably plays into the downtown girl aesthetic and that’s fine with me. I like to be properly dressed but laid back at the same time. Too polished simply isn’t for me but that doesn’t mean I don’t like to make an effort. His silhouette got the slightest update from the previous season which means that trousers got a little narrower. But of course Olivier didn’t send any old skinny jeans down the runway. His version is high-waisted and skinny but slouchy at the same time (although I do wonder if they’ll also hang as nicely on me as they do on the model, ahem) which sounds very confused but isn’t. The high waist is broken up by a ‘double waistband’ – one around your waist, one around your hips. I also loved what the designer called ‘clutch pockets’ on his jackets. The pockets sit very high up almost underneath the armpit and look almost like the wearer has a clutch wedged under her arm. The black evening dress (look 44) is the stuff (my) dreams are made of. It was the only looked styled with biker boots while everything else was paired with highest heels known to womankind. Maybe there is something Olivier and I don’t agree on after all?
OSCAR DE LA RENTA
Oscar de la Renta: looks 14, 23, 37 and 47 on style.com
Season after season Oscar de la Renta puts out the most beautiful clothes imaginable. There never seems to be a grand plan or concept to his collections just tons of inspiration that results in dresses that will make you feel your most pretty. The only thing I didn’t like about this show was the styling. For me it just tried to be something that it’s not. I really don’t think you need to add any bells and whistles to de la Renta’s clothes.
Puh, almost through! See, I do get excited by the clothes. There were a few collections that stood out but I ended up not featuring for one reason or another. Thom Browne is definitely worth a look. And as mentioned before: Alejandro Ingelmo. I will try and get some more info from his PR and post that later. Here are pictures on fashionologie.com from his presentation – without exception, I want them ALL. There also were a few surprises. Christian Siriano (of Project Runway fame) put out a sophisticated and streamlined collection. With his and Wang’s work this season, are they all coming into their own now? Highstreet retailer J.Crew held a presentation which didn’t look out of place at all among the designer lines at NYFW. They’ve improved so much under Jenna Lyons’ direction, it’s exciting to watch what they’ll do next. I also liked Ralph Lauren’s wedding inspired show which was the best the label has been in a while.
Did I forget anyone or anything? What were your favourite shows? How do you like my picks? Love some? Hate others? I’d love to hear your thoughts!
Surface To Air comes to New York
Posted: September 9, 2011 Filed under: autumn/winter, easy style, fashion and art, New York, retail | Tags: fashion, Federico Masotto, Jérémie Rozan, Kid Cudi, Leigh Lezark, Mr Rager, Surface To Air 2 Comments »On Wednesday night French brand Surface To Air opened their first stand-alone store in the US. I went to check out the space and, as a fan of the brand since my days at Browns, to ogle the autumn collection.
Accessories display at Surface To Air's New York store
The store was designed by architect Federico Masotto and reflects Surface To Air’s aesthetic by using materials such as marble, concrete, wood and slate. To the left, the menswear section is outfitted in black marble, while the women’s area down the right of the shop features a whitewashed brick wall. A huge slab of concrete in the middle serves as a display for accessories (there’s also a jewellery display hidden in the back) and modern seating furniture completes the look. The overall design is the perfect mixture between gritty and sleek and works very well within its New York setting.
Kid Cudi in Jérémie Rozan's video 'Mr. Rager'
Next door a video directed by Surface To Air founder Jérémie Rozan featuring Kid Cudi and the S2AxKid Cudi leather jackets played. The rapper and actor fights a gang wearing his jackets to his song ‘Mr. Rager’. To be perfectly honest, I still have no idea what was going on in that video apart from the collaboration being promoted. Visually, the short film is very interesting and beautifully shot. My personal feeling, however, was that it was a bit style over substance. But do you know what Kid Cudi looks like? Exactly. That’s why I’m really not complaining at all.
What I'd like to borrow from the boys
Wishlist item #1: red leggings
Wishlist item #2: red wedge booties
Lastly, the autumn collection. As always on this blog, I’ll ignore the menswear for the most part. This is because as a stylist I rarely do menswear which results in me not knowing enough to comment. There also may or may not be a discrepancy in interest between the two. To put it in the proverbial nutshell: I WANT IT ALL! Pretty much. Just like previous collections this one consists of pieces that are basic and a bit tough at the same time. There’s not much print, which I personally like, but lots of texture otherwise. Red is not a colour I wear that much (mentally going through my closet, no, nope, not a single piece) but I desperately fell in love with red leggings with leather appliqué and a pair of red wedge booties. I also found their hammered silk dresses lovely, as well as a beige coat that I didn’t manage to photograph well enough to post, unfortunately.
Surface To Air boots: Yes, please!
Surface To Air shoe designed by Leigh Lezark
Time to get ready for Bloggers’ Night Out now! It’s still a bit unreal that apparently I’m a blogger now. When exactly did that happen?
Don’t forget to check out the new Surface To Air store at 27 Mercer Street, New York!
(Style) Icon: Patti Smith
Posted: July 1, 2011 Filed under: fashion and art, New York, rock 'n' roll, style icons | Tags: ATP Festival, Because The Night, fashion, Horses, Karl Lagerfeld, Marianne Faithfull, Mick Jagger, Patti Smith, Punk, style icons, The Rolling Stones, Uncle Karl, Watusi Leave a comment »
Godmother of Punk
Last night I happened to watch the episode of Ab Fab where Marianne Faithfull plays God. Today is Kate Moss’s wedding day. This got me thinking about women in rock (although KM technically isn’t IN rock but she counts anyway) and inevitably led me to the girl who invented it all. The Godmother of Punk, Patti Smith. Considering how kick-arse this woman is, I manage to get really cheesy the way I keep proclaiming my love for her. You’ve been warned! I love that men and women like her equally. She’s a style maverick and she’s a huge inspiration to me in that department. She keeps cropping up in my mood boards and research for shoots. She’s on top of my celebrities-I’d-love-to-meet-list (Not a very long list. It’s her, Mick Jagger and Uncle Karl.) Curiously, I don’t remember when I discovered her music. It must have been early on because it feels like she’s always been a point of reference for me. I do remember hating that bad ‘Because The Night’ cover in the 90s, though. Blasphemy! Patti on the other hand did some amazing Rolling Stones covers (I love the Stones on their own. Imagine how much I love the idea of them plus her!). I saw her performing some of those covers live at the ATP Festival a few years back and it was a revelation. This woman is a study in taking no bullshit and being smart and kind at the same time.
OK, I’ll take my fangirling elsewhere and will leave you with one of her songs that I really, really love. Do the Watusi!
Helmut Lang, part 2 – Fall/Winter 2011 preview
Posted: June 13, 2011 Filed under: New York, rock 'n' roll | Tags: chunky knits, Fall/Winter 2011, fashion, Helmut Lang, layering, leather, muted colours, skinny jeans, transparent, winter wardrobe 2 Comments »
Coat with double leather collar, the skinniest jeans in burnt orange
When I went to preview Helmut Lang Resort last week, I had a thorough poke through the Fall/Winter rails as well. While the principles in terms of materials and silhouettes stay the same for this collection, a few new things are being introduced. Most obvious for me were the occasional dots of colour throughout. There were rusty oranges and mustard tones that broke up the more neutral shades. I feel that the skinny jeans (and I mean SKINNY) pictured above will bridge this season’s brightly coloured J Brands well with the usually more muted tones of a winter wardrobe.
Layering up: transparent blouses for FW11 at Helmut Lang
The other quality that I noticed was that these are clothes that will lend themselves very well to layering. Rather chunky, cropped knits together with transparent blouses (most of them with beautiful skinny suede belts) over very skinny jeans will look chic and put-together while keeping you warm come winter.
It's all in the detail: structure meets fluidity
One of my favourite pieces was the burnt orange dress above. I love the structure of the leather detail against the very fluid fabric and the draping. It’s a perfect example for the brands ability to use just enough detail to keep a garment from being bland but not enough to drown it.
For more info and a stockist near you go to helmutlangjournal.com.
Helmut Lang Resort/Holiday 2011 preview
Posted: June 10, 2011 Filed under: accessories, bags, New York | Tags: All Saints, fashion, Helmut Lang, horse hair tassel, minimalistic, Nicole and Michael Colovos, preview, resort Leave a comment »
My picks from Resort/Holiday 2011: transparent sequin & leather detail dress, ostrich feather top, blazer, draped dress
Since I’m a freelance stylist and not attached to a magazine, I pick and choose the appointments I want to go on, and Helmut Lang is definitely near the top of my list. Today I went to preview Resort/Holiday 2011 and FW 2011 in New York. This post will be about Resort, the next one about my impressions of FW.
Helmut Lang’s aesthetic in general very much agrees with my own: Most of my wardrobe is black or grey, I love draping, metallics, feathers, sequins, leather – you get the picture. Resort 11 is no exception and I want to own most of it. I say Resort but it’s more of a Holiday collection. Nicole and Michael Colovos have said that the Helmut Lang girl doesn’t do resort so this collection will hit stores at around October/November in time for the Christmas party season.
As for my picks: I was smitten with a transparent layered dress with a silver sequin front and a leather strap that transitions into a leather panel in the back. Feathers still do it for me on a garment (which is odd because I’m scared of birds). I preferred it as a top but there also was a dress version of this design. A lovely blazer with a very minimalistic and interesting lapel and a pretty cuff detail (see picture below) stood out. In my opinion this deconstructed dress looks sophisticated without trying too hard.
Details: fur collar on a grey felt coat, interesting cuff
The range of accessories has been extended for the coming season and wallets and evening bags have been added to the range. The most striking ones for me were the new messenger bag (which comes in a sand tone and black) and a larger handbag with an unexpected but very beautiful (and detachable) horse hair tassel.
Resort Accessories: messenger bag with bullet-like detail, bag with horse hair tassel
As mentioned above I ended up wanting most pieces for myself. Even the ones I didn’t take a picture of I can easily see myself wearing. The whole collection felt like a more minimalistic, grown-up version of All Saints who I adore as well. The materials were divine and you could feel the quality when you touched a garment. Everything had a certain weight to it, even the pieces made of transparent materials. The label pulls off a perfect balance between adding a staggering amount of detail and keeping lines clean and simple. Combine all that with excellent workmanship and you end up with a product that people can and will wear for many seasons to come.
CFDA Awards 2011
Posted: June 7, 2011 Filed under: red carpet style, New York | Tags: fashion, Jason Wu, Chanel, Proenza Schouler, CFDA, Council of Fashion Designers of America, CFDA Awards 2011, Ashley Olsen, Mary-Kate Olsen, Kirsten Dunst, Marcia Cross, The Row, Pamella Roland, Alice Tully Hall, Lincoln Center, Swarovski, jumpsuits, Iman, J-Lo, Heidi Klum, womenswear designer of the year, Alexander Wang, Marc Jacobs, menswear designer of the year, Michael Bastian, Patrik Ervell, Simon Spurr, accessory designer of the year, Reed Krakoff, Swarovski award for womenswear, Joseph Altuzarra, Prabal Guru, Swarovski award for menswear, Phillip Lim, Robert Geller, Swarovski award for accessory design, Alejandro Ingelmo, Eddie Borgo, Pamela Love, international award, Phoebe Philo, Céline, media award, Eugenia Sheppard, Hilary Alexander, The Telegraph, founders award, Eleanor Lambert, Hal Rubenstein, InStyle, fashion icon award, Lady Gaga, Geoffrey Beene lifetime achievement award, board of directors' special tribute, Arthur Elgort 3 Comments »
Ashley Olsen in The Row, Mary-Kate Olsen in The Row and Chanel, Kirsten Dunst in Patrick Ervell, Marcia Cross in Pamella Roland
The CFDA Awards went down tonight at Lincoln Center’s Alice Tully Hall in New York. Swarovski has been sponsoring the event for the past 10 years. The event honours ‘the outstanding contributions made to American fashion by individuals from all areas of the industry and related arts, with awards being given for design excellence in womenswear, menswear and accessories as well as extraordinary accomplishments in journalism, creative vision and lifetime achievement’.
The carpet was decidedly meh (I’m pulling out all my eloquent stops tonight!) and there were very few outfits I actually liked. Kirsten Dunst, although not perfect, was my best dressed last night. Firstly, for very obscure reasons I don’t understand myself, I love that she has seemed clean and ‘together’ lately. This is what reality TV does to you, I guess. It makes you appreciate people with a real talent, even if you’re not a fan in particular. Pulling back in from my tangent… I thought Kiki looked quite ‘fashion’. The Olsens I liked because they made for such a pretty picture together. It’s a very weird thing to say but I love the colour palette of them together which wouldn’t have worked without Ashley’s orange-y bag. The shoes, Ashley’s Manolos in particular, are hideous. But the bags (The Row and the most blatant product placement I’ve seen in a while – are they not selling or are they just launching them?) are very beautiful, as is MK’s Chanel jacket. Actually, apart from the Manolos, I love both Olsen outfits tonight. And then there was Marcia Cross! I zigzag between being surprised she even was at the CFDA Awards and being surprised by what she wore (Pamella Roland). Iman will be annoyed she didn’t find that one first. Or J-Lo! Or Heidi Klum!
Less opinionated, here’s the full list of last night’s nominees and winners:
WOMENSWEAR DESIGNER OF THE YEAR
Alexander Wang
Jack McCollough & Lazaro Hernandez for Proenza Schouler (Well deserved!)
Marc Jacobs
MENSWEAR DESIGNER OF THE YEAR
Michael Bastian
Patrik Ervell
Simon Spurr
ACCESSORY DESIGNER OF THE YEAR
Alexander Wang
Jack McCollough & Lazaro Hernandez for Proenza Schouler
Reed Krakoff
SWAROVSKI AWARD FOR WOMENSWEAR
Joseph Altuzarra
Ashley Olsen & Mary-Kate Olsen
Prabal Gurung
SWAROVSKI AWARD FOR MENSWEAR
Alexander Wang
Phillip Lim
Robert Geller
SWAROVSKI AWARD FOR ACCESSORY DESIGN
Alejandro Ingelmo
Eddie Borgo
Jason Wu
Pamela Love
INTERNATIONAL AWARD
Phoebe Philo for Céline
MEDIA AWARD, given in honor of Eugenia Sheppard
Hilary Alexanderof of The Telegraph
FOUNDERS AWARD, given in honor of Eleanor Lambert (the CFDA’s founder)
Hal Rubenstein of InStyle
FASHION ICON AWARD
Lady Gaga
GEOFFREY BEENE LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT AWARD
Marc Jacobs (or half-lifetime achievement award as he suggested it should be)
BOARD OF DIRECTORS’ SPECIAL TRIBUTE
Arthur Elgort
EDIT New York’s two part lecture series by Cynthia Nachmani
Posted: June 6, 2011 Filed under: fashion and art, New York, retail | Tags: ALC, Alissa Emerson, art historian, art history, Calvin Klein, Cynthia Nachmani, EDIT New York, fashion, Fendi, J Brand, Jason Wu, lecture, Lexington Avenue, Little Edit, Proenza Schouler, PS1, UES, Upper East Side, Valerie Feigen, women in art Leave a comment »
EDIT New York hosts a two part lecture series by renowned art historian Cynthia Nachmani
About a month ago a very interesting invitation arrived in my inbox. Would I like to join EDIT New York for a two part lecture series by renowned art historian Cynthia Nachmani on ‘Women in Art’? That’s a resounding YES from me. Fashion on its own usually is enough of a lure for me but throw art history into the mix and I just can’t resist. So off I went to Manhattan’s Upper East Side one Thursday last month. The boutique was closed to the public during this two hour lunch time event, sandwiches were served, and owners Alissa Emerson and Valerie Feigen were on hand to chat with their guest and move the occasional bench to accommodate everyone before Cynthia Nachmani’s talk. I have to admit I had no idea who Cynthia was (Hey, I’m new in town!) but a quick search on Google revealed that she is a very well-known art historian who teaches private art classes and and gives tours and lectures on art and film at the MoMA, Met, and the Guggenheim. Pretty impressive so far.
EDIT New York occupies a beautifully renovated townhouse on Manhattan's Upper East Side
I started by browsing the clothes since it was my first time at EDIT and I wanted to see what they were all about. As the their name may suggest, the boutique is beautifully and tightly edited: lots of Proenza Schouler, Fendi, Jason Wu and some – believe it or not – very interesting Calvin Klein pieces. The focus seems to be on classic shapes and colours. Not that this means their selection is boring, no. But EDIT’s buyers seem to be keen to avoid the latest it-designer who might not live up to expectations in two seasons time. You will, however, find very trendy items like the slouchy PS1 or sky-high Fendi platforms. The section upstairs houses denim and more casual pieces (think J Brand and ALC) and the most adorable selection of apparel and accessories for little girl’s sizes 0 to 6 called Little Edit. Still impressed.
Upstairs at EDIT New York with Little Edit in the back
Cynthia started her lecture by explaining that she was originally asked to speak for about 20 minutes but this was impossible for her so it will be longer. I didn’t mind that at all because it became very clear even within her first few sentences that Cynthia was one of the most compelling speakers I’ve ever heard and that we were in for quite a treat. Stylishly dress in a simple white t-shirt and a printed skirt, she was very funny, eloquent and exuded warmth. Obviously she has a great knowledge of all things art but what makes her so unique is her ability to communicate with her audience. Listening to her talking about iconography is more like listening to someone telling you a very gripping story. Girl-crush!
The first lecture covered the representation of women from primitive to the 19th century across various genres and how women are represented clothed, nude and based on cultural needs. I now know such amazing details such as Mary Magdalene is always the one with loose hair while everyone else (especially Mary) is wearing theirs up because, obviously, loose hair equals a loose woman or how to tell my Athena from my Nike. The second lecture later this week is titled ‘The Spectacle: where shopping began’. There’s no doubt that it will be as much fun as the first one and I shall return to tell you lot how it was. Fingers crossed I think of taking a camera with me this time around!
You can find EDIT New York at:
1368 Lexington Avenue (at 90th Street)
New York, NY 10128
or online at www.editnewyork.com
